Pantry

The first pantry

Four things from Kodagu, to begin: a dark meat masala, a monsoon vinegar, a garden chilli, and the three together. Each tin names the woman who made it. Kitchens from the rest of India come next — bring a recipe.

Susheela Appaji of Madikeri

Coorg Meat Masala

Kartha masala — coriander, pepper and the quiet spices of a Coorg kitchen, roasted dark and ground a little coarse so it clings to meat.

From ₹175

Subbi of Kutta

Kachampuli

Monsoon fruit, boiled down by Subbi of Kutta until it turns near-black. A teaspoon is a whole dish.

From ₹160

Poovamma of Madikeri

Bird-Eye Chilli Powder

Tiny Kodagu chillies, dried and pounded bright. High, clean heat — the jar by the stove.

From ₹280

Susheela Appaji of Madikeri

The Coorg Pantry

Susheela Appaji's meat masala, Subbi's kachampuli, Poovamma's bird-eye chilli — packed together with their names.

From ₹590